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Post Info TOPIC: suspension


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suspension


Some experiences for anyone interested.yawn

New Beta is a lovely bike but the suspension is a bit fierce and left me spitting out fillings on the stony stuff even with compression clickers full out. So I thought that I would have a fiddle.biggrinbiggrin

Compression shims are on the bottom of the fork leg. Just took the legs off the bike and turned them upside down. I put a rubber cup over the top of the fork leg to stop it damaging on the hard garage floor and compresed the fork jamming the foot under the edge of the workbench to keep it compressed.  The spring then holds the inner unit tight.Two light taps with an impact wrench and socket and out spins the compression shim stack and valve.

Shimms were
23mm x .1
23mm x  .1
10mm x .1 Crossover
23mm x  1   (subsequently removed)
22mm x .1
20mm x .1
20mm x.15
17mm x .15
15mm x .15
10mm x.1


I removed the third 23mm shim. This softened the high speed stack ( the smaller shims belw the crossover) and also let the low speed stack shims (the first two 23mm shims) flex a bit more. So should be softer and more compliant without being soggy.

I took it out to test. I still need compression clickers fully out but it is much better. There were a few surprises.

On the test track i use there is a concrete step 4"" or so high with a drop after. As the bike went over it the bike kicked me in the rear- How so- I havent touched the back end?confuse

I turned the front rebound damping out three cklicks so that the front wheel would return qicker. It should now reach for the ground after I crossed the step rather that stay in the air and let the front of the bike fall just as the rear hit the step. Bingo- no kick from the rear.

Off to XXXXXXX for the big slatey hill up through the woods. It felt a bit nervous going down  and coming back up the back wheel was hopping about like a mad thing and loosing traction. The compression on the rear is also full out so I had a play with the rear rebound. I turned it in a couple of clicks and had another ride up- Bl***y disaster- it was all over the placedisbelief and its a long way down to the river if you fall of the edge there.

I turned the rebound clicker back out the two clicks and then another four.  Well I never- Sailed up nice and easy- no fuss. smile..

A quick try on a couple of muddy lanes- felt much more sure footed.

Trouble is- now its a bit more compliant  there is nothing to blame for the next Badger- dohh.. Still looking forward to some real world tests- Worst case I have to put the shim back and start again.



Ps- high speed and low speed compression refers to the speed of travel of the fork legs not the bike. A square edged hit will cause high speed suspension travel , soft hollows wiil cause low speed travel.

Hope you are not too bored by now. PS can anyone tell me where the spell checker is on this - I dont want to betray my south yorkshire education anymore-

Cheers
Mike

 

Sorry to 'Edit' you Mike, only 'cos it's an open Forum. Bob.

PS. I enjoyed reading it, but I don't know what on earth you're talking about.

 



-- Edited by Captain Slow on Monday 9th of November 2009 09:24:25 PM

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Senior Member

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Nicely explained Mike, good one.

My own 525SX was also somewhat harsh on the front end which i have now cured by replacing the SX springs with EXC springs for the softer more plush ride.
Rear spring is standard with ALL pre load unwound.

My thoughts were that as a competition bike initially, it was provided with suspension to cater for large jumps and other extremes which I have no need of.

At the moment, the compression and rebound damping both front and rear are wound out to the most comfortable settings.

The only run I have had with the current set up was a very wet and rocky experience which did not really test the relationship of front to rear but I'll get to that in time although indications may be that the front end rebound damping may need a tweek.

BOSUN

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Hi Bosun

this suspension lark is indeed a black art. What seems like a front end issue can often be the back and vice versa.

Butt dyno seems to be the only real way of getting the bike set up just right - riding the same lane - making notes of the effects of each change of the clickers can help though.

Thanks for some fabulous stories from your trip- Do you feel a book coming on?

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Another little update for what its worth-yawn

Im not impresseddisbeliefdisbeliefdisbelief- went out for some real world riding with Wheely. Bike was fine on the muddy lanes, if a bit fidgety, but dropping down big steps was very uncomfortable.

The bike felt out of control and took a lot of energy to hang on -not good- a bit of a ****-up infact-frustrated.gif

I added a bit of compression damping to see the day out but it just didnt seem right and it just made the bike harsh again over the stoney stuff - oh b***er.  Not good for your confidence.

Out the next day and an opportunity to chat with Neil. idea.gif- I took the compression clickers right out again to keep the front end plush but added more rebound damping- much better all day. Seems the big steps made the bike POGO- a bit more rebound stopped it. It feels compliant and controlled now.

Probably a bit more butt dyno and a little fine tuning and it should be just right.

"you put the klickers in- the klickers out- in- out- in out - shake em all about- do the spokey cokey"---  you know the tune.


Mike



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