The day has finally arrived. Departure Plymouth 0900 hrs with big KTM bag supplied by Rob of JD Racing as a loan and packed with Shoei helmet, Asterisk knee braces and the trousers of my grey Revit suit and my six six one armour. Not much room for owt else just some briefs and socks and a fleece supplied by World Big Cat Safari's plus Tshirts from JD Racing and the ever helpful and gentlemanly Mike Graingerof GT Motorcycles. Arrival Heathrow at 1330 hrs and a 5 and half hour wait. At 1500 the bouyant Richard Finney swept into the terminal and once he'd checked in it was my turn. I then helped most of the other entrants with documents etc before passing through security. I had to change into my bike trousers as wearing my bike boots with lightweight walking trousers just looked really daft. This all in an effort to reduce baggage weight of checked in luggage. So it begins! I pen this as I eat a meal in the time available and have changed from boots to crocs and am carrying each boot in a plastic shopping bag! Hopefully a little snooze on the 10 hour flight with a pill to assist and the comfort of an Air Hawk under me bum! Thanks so far to all for the good wishes and to Carol for dropping me at Heathrow. The excitement is beginning to gain texture - rather like a good fart! With luck I'll be able to post daily but at this stage I just don't know.
Having arrived in Joburg at 0645 a wait of a few hours ensued before another flight to Port Elizabeth Having landed on the runway close to the sea it was a short hop to the Radisson hotel and the first glimpses of our bikes, each with the riders names clearly on the front number board above the headlamp Out with my bar risers and off to the mechanics for fitment Also installed Garmin Zumo gps and helmet camera equip with a variety of mounting options for alternative views The bikes appear to be pretty well maintained and the Red Cherry Adventure outfit well organised Looks like 79 entrants plus the support staff all heading eventually to Port Edward Next group will be reversing the route and starting close to Durban which is said to be the difficult stuff first done that way round Starving hungry by 7pm and our first meeting and meal Prresentations from charity representatives, some African dance and singing executed very well by local children then our brief for tomorrow 247km from Port Elizabeth to Port Alfred including a particularly challenging section Lots of safety advice and an insight into the huge team behind thiis event After the opening cavalcade we'll be away at around 0730 My alarm is set for 0545 and that is with the 1 hour ahead time difference Time now for some much needed shuteye in the company of Michael, another entrant who I have quite literally just met! No small talk from me, just straight in the sack! As I type this I now discover he snores! Marvellous!
We head out from the Halyards Hotel with a police escort again but this time in our 14- strong 'colour' groups. As second group out I'm becoming progressively more proud of green.
On exit from the first refuelling of the day (there will be 4) we join the gravel road system and begin to head inland. No dramas, it's throttle wrist wrapped round the handlebars and flat out in the rain.I make an indicated 69 mph downhill where the surfaces allow.
Our first stop for a breather comes after 55km and I'm glad because the vibration in the bars has my hands trembling. On our restart we head into a forested area and the dun starts. The gravel roads now are interspersed with fine red/ brown mud and both wheels have a mind of their own, we do however maintain an exciting pace and it's not long before one of our number attempts to clean his bike in a pond adjacent to the road. He's lucky. Unhurt he clambers from the drop- off beside the road, his passage to the crocodiles prevented by the overhanging branches of a tree which still contain his bike! Once extracted, straightened and pointed in the right direction we head off again at the same blistering pace which really was quick considering the surface. 10 mins later Mr Slide manages to T bone another rider because he just couldn't stop at a x roads. He received quite some stick and thankfully no harm done to people, and bikes able to continue.
Lunch at a charming country club then on for the remaining technical section before days end.
After a decent lunch we headed in a roughly NE direction.More gravel tracks and typical African towns. Much waving and smiling continue to be the norm.
The rain abates and it's not long before the extremely bright sun dries things enough to bring the dust back into play with its inherent issues. I reckon the air filter on my bike is becoming rapidly clogged. Around mid afternoon sees us entering a very tricky fast section of perhaps 30km. The trails wind steadily with significant ascents and decents, the problem being the significant erosion from the masses of water in the wet season. There are literally crevasses running at all manner of alarming angles to the trails and astonishingly deep. We maintain a high momentum and pick best lines where we can. It's up on the pegs in real earnest and I seem to be gripping the bars for all I'm worth. The bike squirrels its way and I'm sure the very frame is elastic with some of the antics. I pick my way through the riders, partly out of a need to see the better lines and naturally, with the second man drop off system. I'm going well and in my element. I need to pass the guy in front as he's regularly missing better lines. I'm close and ready to pass but there's just no safe spot. He makes one error, hesitates, and goes skywards. There's air between him and his bike and I pray that I'll miss both. Amazingly both reunite and after a rapid shake, like a cat shedding water, it's full on again. Tremendous!
No offs today for me and 305km covered.We're now at Morgans Bay which is stunning and a full belly courtesy of the MB Hotel. The food was startlingly good.
Tomorrow we cross 13 rivers including one by simple ferry. We have just 77km to cover but we are informed it will be the most technical and engaging so far. There will be a gamut of steep climbs and descents to contend with. The following day is a day of rest, which I guess says something.
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IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
I have had a stunning morning The riding has been. Phenominal and certainly not easy We have maintained a swift pace in varied and challenging terrain and I am delighted both with the level of skill/brain numb determination required and my performance I had been concerned I would be out of my depth but I've done ok Lunchtime approaches and we head for a small village school at which we will be doing some work to refurbish their cresh They know we're coming but the children have rarely seen bikes if at all! The scene begins to develop as on the rise above the school we align all abreast This feels like a scene from Zulu as the warriors mass and I can only wonder at the thoughts in the minds below The childrens inquisitive nature and simple trust means they run uphill to US! Unprompted and without leadership the children fall into a line and then methodically work along our lines shaking the hand of every single rider I am an intruder in their lives and humbled without a word being spoken! We light up our engines and the children scatter in fear then whoop with joy There are smiles in every quarter and every helmet as we descend to our African Greeting The school is where we shall eat our packed lunches There are no shops here! As the bikes roll in the children dance and sing the African rythems infusing into our souls I stand watching, soaking the experience into my heart There Are brief introductions then our work of clearing begins We take away their rickety and broken desks and chairs - all of them! Tomorrow we will work on the buildings and furnishings to give them a school again I take photo's of the rooms the children have been trying to learn in and note the handwriten papers on the walls There is no blackboard, no dry wipe board and definitely no computer! I move to the 2nd & 3rd rooms and find more of the same More pictures and more disbelief I round the corner to the newer building and find a small classroom filled with riders and children at small desks We have brought toys with us and the children are being introduced to them Many do not know what they have in their hands or what they are supposed to do with them! In our riding gear we drop to our knees and show them I take more pictures with difficulty in holding back tears I turn to see a famiar thoughtful expression in the face of Ali the Unicef representative and I simply say "This still gets to you doesn't it" She replies with a single uninflected "Yes" I experience being moved far more than I ever thought I would be and warmed to the core that I have had a part in this. Eventually, still choked and smiling we don our gear once again and get under way, we still have many obstacles to overcome Our ride returns along a short section of recognised trail imprinted on our minds in the way that severity has a habit of imprinting itself One or two riders go down but no injuries We continue heading Northward adjacent to the coast with stunning views and glorious bays There is no beach riding permitted in South Africa but we catch about 50M at a rivers end and I play for a moment passing the guy in front with the rear wheel drifting just enough to put another grin on me chops Further along we enter a wide but very deeply rutted section caused by volumes of water and erosion, this section however is a steep descent and about 200m long I pick my way sensibly and not too slowly Behind me I become aware of another engine He's close and must be following my exact lines I then here a shout of alarm and am shunted hard in the rear wheel I'm sent wildly offline and it's all I can do to hold on This could hurt! It takes me about 25m to regain a decent line and I've travelled across the hill about 15M right into the run of the deepest ruts! Somehow it comes good and I keep the plot vertical I think my assailant survived having used my bike to control his descent speed It seems that he was still overcome with excitement and passed me a short while later only to come a very real pearler at the exit to a river crossing The descent to the water was quite steep and interspersed with rocks, the exit required a veering to the right and a 40degree climb If you chose to exit left of the ideal line the only route was an excrutiating crevace His speed of entry was so great he had to commit to the crevace but his passage abruptly halted by a tree stump jamming against the underside of his frame Over the bars and sideways into more stumps! Thankfully not badly hurt, but nicely battered to draw blood from a gouge to his temple where a branch found it's way in between the helmet shell and his goggles - Lucky! The remainder of the day was at a lower key and just as well since folk were obviously becoming tired 3 or 4 more offs including one where a hop over a log resulted in a drive chain being forced off the rear sprocket and the slack collecting around the front All in, a darned fine day and extremely rewarding 77km of technique mixed with arduous heat and the bonus of emotional attachment in the school No offs!
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-- Edited by Bosun on Wednesday 7th of October 2009 09:44:00 PM
-- Edited by Bosun on Wednesday 7th of October 2009 09:45:56 PM
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IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
7th Oct sees us with a day off from riding We are however engaged in a project organised by Touch Africa at a local school All 89 of us turn up to refurbish 3 classrooms, do further work in some more and build a jungle playframe We split into teams and commence removal of all items in the rooms We then thoroughly sweep and commence painting There are other entrants that fit windows and doors whilst more fit carpets We are on a tight timeline and it's all reminiscent of "Challenge Aneka" Some more entrants rig up a BBQ and feed the children, their parents, the whole community! We eat cereal bars or whatever an individual might have
Towards the end of our time at the school we provide new brightly coloured plastic chairs and tables for the childrens Cresh and we witness the introduction to the toys we have brought I am overcome with the reactions of the children, they have never seen Lego, they do not understand skittles and a single Barbie type doll bemuses one young girl whose facial expressions show clearly her every emotion and Joy
I have never seen such reactions in the Western World! These children have never seen in their few years, let alone held in their hands the bright new playthings It seems such a simple omission Bright eyes literally gleam in their faces and I realise I am wearing a huge smile and have tears welling in the corners of my own eyes Eventually I tare myself away, I have to Something of my self conscious says move away so as not to be seen in this moment of weakness But everyone else is just the same I experience an uprising of pride
After speaches from The organisers and the elders of the community with translations for all we head back to the very lovely Mazeppa Bay Hotel to prepare for our following days activities We shall be riding for a minimum of 10 hours on "The Day" This is said to be the most technical and demanding of our voyage 150km on The Wild Coast 17 deep river crossings and numerous steep and treacherous ascent and descents The views and scenery are said to be breathtaking Our evening briefing makes no bones as to the nature of what is to come We have a number of alternative routes should individuals opt out of sections and we are informed that we MUST make a rendezvous with the water truck before 1330 so that we can clear a hazardous cliff section before nightfall If all goes well we can be done tomorrow by 1700 but many in past times have rolled into our destination "Hole in the Wall" not long before midnight All entrants are now much more quiet and thoughtful The bar clears early as sleep is viewed highly important
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IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
8th Oct dawns and my sleep has been wanting We fall into our familiar routine of dress and preparations most everything done the night before I have my hydration pack already filled with my mix of salts etc and the small pocket filled with cereal bars I have religeously cleaned and anti fogged both my visor and pinlock insert plus my safety specs I have a moist rag in my pocket for de dusting during the day On the bike I now have front and rear fender packs I'm carrying first aid, spare gloves, my water proof liner, dextrose (doubles as First Aid for Diabetics) and a few more cereal bars This is going to be one hell of a day!
Swift breakfast and in staggered release, the teams are off We are normally second out, but today the slower teams are leaving half an hour ahead of us to try and ensure they reach the cutoff by 1330 if folk don't make it by that time they will complete the remainder of the day by road and miss the hazardous stuff due to the probability of nightfall and the cliff edges
We are away with three teams ahead of us and it's not long before we face the first obstacle, a steep and loose surfaced descent We are all only too aware that this day comprises many such hurdles We are up for it, if full of trepidation At 10 second intervals battle commences, it's tricky, it's about 0.75km of constant changes of direction, rocks, stumps, roots and more rocks, this is "The Gorge" , but we've experienced the joys of yesterday and as a team we make good In fact we breeze it, now we're warmed up and rolling Bring it on!
The day continues with a huge variety of trails, some as narrow as a rut and others car tyre depressions with choices of which forrow to fall into or Tussock grass to the sides We deal with each technical obstacle as we find them and I find myself into a groove, I feel right on song It's not long before we catch up with the earlier teams and a bottle neck ensues at a steep ascent from a river crossing We are delayed by an hour and a half and we assist the other teams to get to the top before we can clear it ourselves There are many tired faces and a few burned out clutches There are bent handlebars and a holed crankcase We scythe our way through and step up the pace, we have to make that 1330 rendezvous
On one unbelievably long and boulder strewn descent my thigh muscles are burning with the constant strain of standing on the footpegs and the rapid changes of direction We have one or two fallers who brush themselves off and I admit to my first static sideways topple as I struggle for grip on a wild ascent We arrive at the Basha at 1330 on the nose and take on 2 litres of fuel each from the waiting van along with a very welcome sandwich In 15mins we're away again! This is surely one adventure all right!
We continue to make up ground on a team ahead and eventually are allowed to pSs them by on a very narrow forested section where one of their own has come a right cropper The views are spectacular, this part of the country is just fantastic The rivers we see are wide and flowing with rolling hills all around, I love this place Well before nightfall we arrive at the area of the cliff face and are shown where a rider from another organised event failed to stop and rode straight over! It's a sobering thought and we have been well informed both beforehand and shepherded well clear upon arrival
We have time in hand and our guides and TEC's congratulate us all on our major achievement Somehow we all know how well we have done as team, but the words from our peers are genuine and very well received We are elated Yes, there have been few fallers, but not so many and yes we are extremely tired but when asked at a checkpoint if we wish to continue the last bit of the day by roads there is a unified response:- No Bloody Way!
Off we go again, I'm really enjoying today, everything has fallen into place and I'm riding probably the very best I ever have Our remaining distance is quite short, maybe just 30km We sweep across the tops with the Indian Ocean's waves crashing into the shoreline and lovely sandy bays or river outlets on our right and rolling hills with wide rivers intertwined to our left - Fantastic!
Then we encounter the most taxing and difficult descent, or indeed thing that I have ever faced on a motorcycle! The descent commences from the very tops and comprises a narrow swathe throught the hill and is strewn with Granite Boulders There are steps so high that the undercarriage grounds out and with the front so low compared to the back so high I am perilously close to going over the top I have to be so verycareful how much front brake to use I keep a momentum, albeit as slow as I dare This is steep, this is daunting and frightening in places I stay on the pegs and keep my composure as best I can I have a few dabs, but I figure I'm excused on this occasion, I just must not go over the bars, can't stop! Several times on flatter sections my feet are knocked clear of the pegs by boulders, my brake lever is bent back a bit, but I still mercifully have access Then, it's done! I've made it, I'm down and in one piece There are whoops of joy and sheer release at the achievement, not just this immense obstacle but for the day as a whole
Others unfortunately are not so fortunate, but there are unbelievably no major injuries I help my team members down where I can and lift a bike off the top of one I question the wisdom of doing this at the end of a very long hard day where entrants of varying ability are already so tired I request at least that there be put in place a checkpoint with an explanation of what awaits and an alternative made available for future occasions Elated, we head off again for a view of the namesake rock with the huge hole in it's centre created by the localities river outflow over time
Finally we drop down from the tops and head into our accomodation for the night This is the first time things have become more simple. The place is a tad tired and in need of a refurb and I am billeted in a large chalet with about 10 others I am in a room with 2 double bunks and thankfully seize a lower one It feels confined and could be so very much more in this idyllic spot We have all had a very long day and no doubt will sleep no matter our surroundings Still there are teams arriving way after dark! The food proves to be strIghtforward and of sufficient quantity but this is no palace
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IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
9th Oct I've slept well mostly but awoke early, disturbed by another needing the loo As I twist and turn searching for a scrap of comfort I too decide the loo calls for me I make every effort to slip out of my bunk noiselessly and then out of the door which opens onto a veranda The loos are each within the other rooms and I do not want to awaken anyone The dark sides of the building will be my pisspot and I find a position This is Africa at night! The sounds are junglelike and I am aware of the probability of nocturnal reptiles etc The guy from the bunk above mine is also out now, he too has been wanting to go and was reluctant to disturb me by climbing down. Although he is very pensive and mentions a few times the threat of Snakes and Scorpions Then again, maybe he,s concerned at being alone in the dark with me?
Back to my bunk only to be awoken at 0520 by my own alarm which I have forgotten to change to the later start! I think I turn it off but hit snooze by mistake and 5 mins later become ever so popular! When it comes to the right time to get up I sleep through and eventually awake to find myself alone, abandoned within the room The routine is slightly awry, but I make up time and am ready to go for the green teams depart time
We refuel at Coffee Bay and run a small gauntlet of necklace selling locals but nothing sinister
Today is said to be an easy day, mostly gravel roads which means dust - Oh Joy! The pace is swift and all are tired We encounter greater numbers of people as we pass routes popular with tourists We also encounter dogs One canine is hit as it tries to snap at the passing red growling monster that brings billowing dust to it's world I later learn that another teams member had dessimated one yesterday and also hits another today It upsets him and our own team member is affected by the experience We are first along the chosen route and pass a dead puppy obviously quite fresh, now we're all thoughtful
We divert at an early point across trails in the hills and I can't seem to find my rythem, my lines are off too but no drama's, I'll get back into it I tell myself We do a few more shortish trails then encounter an ascent It catches many of us offguard, myself included I have traction, but lose a little early on. I'm in 2nd at the right point but insufficient momentum to make a step of Granite about a foot high. The incline is loose generally and maybe 35degrees The front wheel rises and I'm careful to slip the clutch rather than completely disengage The back end kicks and I have to step clear as I lay the bike down I heave it back upright fighting with the gradient as it wants to roll back I'm back aboard and gain as much drive as possible kicking the front wheel over the step In slowmo the front end rises and I'm caught with my legs at the highest point For a fraction I wrestle with this upright brute that I need to keep pointing uphill The rear spins on the step, my feet fail to find terrafirma and I'm down I roll this time, two maybe even three times and I'm only too aware of the bikes coming up behind me As I come to rest most likely against a tree I only think that my "clear" for the event is now well shot My own fault, I know better Yesterday I think I'd have sailed up, but not THIS day
The dusty gravel roads pass for a time and we settle into the passing K's There is a very different feel about this area, it's far less rural and there are more people, a little greater wealth but no afluence We witness some children throwing stones at the riders which is hugely contrary to the reception we have had up to now There are also more dogs!
The gravel roads disappear for a time and a real bendswinging period ensues I'm in my element at last and marvel at the grip of these warm knobblies I witness one rider overshooting a bend and introducing his Honda to a local bush I then watch as the rider ahead of me is reluctant to lean and ends up braking hard and sliding sideways onto a verge with only a foot or so to prevent a drop over the edge Thankfully he makes it and I pass him by because he's spoiling my lines
We arrive at Cremorne and receive our billeting arrangements Now I'm in very simple quarters I have a thin plastic covered mattress on the floor and a blanket - luxury! There are 2 others in this non doored room with me and 4 adjacent Elsewhere there are about 20 guys all side by side in a conference room I'm thankful I'm not one of them They are so close together it reminds me of the type of thing you'd expect to see at a major disaster site I have a very quick choice of my mattress and select one near to the loo in case I have need in the night and it's just 10 feet away What I become acutely aware of in the night apart from the slop of Lasagne for evening meal is that the loo doesn't even have a doorframe let alone door! Although I try to hold on, sleep is more important and I have to go for No 2's My tummy is upset, but I guess the guy trying to sleep maybe 3 feet away is a little more so! Happy Days
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IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
10th Oct An entirely monumental day! It has rained hard all night long I know because I was awake so much
We are expecting the trails to be challenging and as we are to find, we are a very long way from being wrong!
We deal with the familiar items of preparation and are generally happy to be moving on from the cramped confines of the facility at Port St Johns Not because it was atrocious, just because we have become accustomed to better and really they are pushed to squeeze us all in, the accomodation etc suffers Never mind, we've made do and now it's time to move on to the next part of our epic
Gravel roads with some level of the vividly remembered brown cream from earlier are negotiated The handlebars dance there own merry way and the power stays on It's disconcerting to say the least riding with a front wheel that skims the surface with a mind of it's own! It's desperately easy to catch the moundings of built up sodden soil like silt These are the extrusions from vehicle tyre patterns that form lines in our direction of travel at times 3 to 4 inches high They cover the whole road with the only exception being where recent tyres have gone The precious space a tyre width wide offers best grip, but is really only flattened 'cream' and not to be trusted One moment grip is ok, the next is dire! Oh, by the way, that's in a straight line!
We have 50km to do and everyone is only too aware that parts of today are going to be exceptionlly demanding Thank heaven we're going offroad
A little after our refuelling we begin to negotiate more river crossings and forested areas The trails vary in width but are most often very narrow and effectively comprise simple ledges on steep sided hills I counter balance and do better than many but even so, with grassy hills this wet it's not long before team members begin sliding offline and then off the track completely Some take tumbles and I have my first of the day It's only a simple off and no damage is done We work as a team should with the various hazards posed and manhandle our bikes when it becomes impossible to ride an obstacle as an individual Without everyone helping, no-one will get through
We encounter some crazy ascents strewn with roots, boulders and just slippery clay like mud It's mayhem but we work hard to get everyone through each time Of course, wherever there ia an ascent there has to be a descent and they too are made awsome by the conditions We have a tough time and energy levels are sapped in most
We complete an arduous first half of day and at our arranged checkpoint we are all given the opition to ride the roads to our next stop at Mbotyi Lodge
I should explain at this point that tiredness is now clearly evident in some and it's obvious that they are not enjoying themselves It takes one chap to be honest with himself and he makes the honourable call of accepting the easier route. 3 others join him and our team is now down to 13 I should also say that the remainder of the day will be on a route that has only recently be found and with the exception of an initial party of 4 has never been ridden! This is part of the guidance notes:- "today could be one of the hardest yet. Floating bikes across rivers, negotiating wet forest single tracks and at times carrying and dragging your bike will be the order of the day. - estimated AVERAGE speed of 5km/hour"
The morning session therefore was to be considered a warm up
Now we shook hands with our 4 comrades and bid them well. There was absolutely no shame, we all knew what we had already done The remaining Baker's Dozen eyed each other knowingly and yet we knew naff all! What was to come had the very best of us fully extended and at times this included our guides
We set off, a feeling of unity and grit Total commitment to the task and to the team. We all knew our very own success depended upon each other The area we had committed ourselves to has no vehiclar access, no possibility of helicopter evacuation and if a bike proved terminal it just stayed there. We were on our own! Team of 13 plus Lead and Sweep (Tail End Charlie) with our Medic running at the rear ahead of the sweep
Our openers were varied trails and single tracks, adverse cambered ledges and more mud The ascents and descents continued to come thick and repeatedly but the distance gained was pitiful against time Several times we made our own trail since there was none to follow and our timings have us at 100m in a little over a full hour on a few occasions The paths where present are created by cattle, huge long horned creatures with irregular backlines that graize this wonderful land Their owners, the very friendly hill people have little need for fences, life is far too simple for that In fact, as we ever so slowly move across their lands we are joined by many wide eyed children, always laughing, dancing and clapping at the crazy fools with the red machines Often, without any words exchanged they offer pulling or guidance help and always I find myself looking into eyes uncluttered with the expectations we have Just a people who smile, and enjoy life and others so much This was breaking new ground alright, not just for Enduro Africa but for myself I recollect: A pretty wide and fast flowing river crossing has us working as never before There are 5 guys in the water to help each bike across with the individual hazard aspects The first is the boulder riddled entry which kicks everyone off line Bikes then are hauled back into position to attack the next part Straddling the bikes we ease slowly forward and an inch or so off target line means the rear wheel drops off a ledge of ultra smooth Granite and the rear of the seat nearly disappears beneath water! 3 guys grunt the bikes back on line and the riders move on to the next part More slipping and hauling brings each bike aligned with the exit point between two large rocks The first few are through without too much hassle but the next strikes a rock with the chain guide, derailing the chain as a result. Thus blocking the exit and creating a choked section There are many riders to come so we have to clear as quickly as possible. We can hear the engines revving as they make repeated attempts to overcome obstacles, the sound echoing through the rich green valleys The bikes further up attempt to move on a little to create space and another chain is derailed In fact, we have 3 chains off in nearly as many minutes and each is jammed around the front sprocket!
Then some further riders join the fray and we assist them through They profit hugely both from our line and from our help Two of they're chains are also derailed but swiftly sorted and it's the yellow team now on route with just 3 entrants We clear the river and there are proper congratulations all round The team spirit is enormous and with steam lifting from my brow I regain my breathing and am awash with pride Regrouping, we're off again, at least for a further 20M as we deal with the ascent
Om the day goes, we make 100M again and begin to consider the onset of nightfall and what it may mean if we cannot clear these woodlands and valleys In many ways we are lucky, the day is overcast and the temperatures are lower in consequence Still we are constantly reminded to hydrate and our 3liitre supplies in some cases begin to dwindle We have been shown a simple tube device that acts like a straw but in fact contains both sedimentary and microbiological filters enabling our Western stomachs to drink the river water. A brilliant device, I wish I had one
On we go, the varity of obstacles untrue, we are contending with everything Now we are closing toward the end of the day There is not one of us that has not fallen and the tiredness becomes vivid As we negotiate a narrow ledge, the guy in front falls downslope This I know is out of character for him and I find I struggle to maintain simple lines I right his bike for him and stay beside him as he gets underway As I restart my own bike and look up, he has made 10M and he's off again in the same way. I restart him again and this time he makes 15M He needs to rest and I stay with him There are just a few in sight behind and they too struggle, my friend here has been off about 5 times in half as many minutes The others arrive behind us and the Medic also advises a rest and repeats my words of hydration I am asked to move on, but first I have to try and gain space on this narrow ledge I haul my friends bike forward and find a small space to pass and set off with some others behind. I make about 100M along the ledge and have my own close call. I look round behind to see a gap of about 80M has developed, absolutely everyone is struggling I head on and make some ground to a small hill farm, all mud and Wicker "roundels" and am told to 'get up that hill' I dutyfully head off sensing an end close by. I check my gps and see it's only a few Km's Far ahead riders are on the tops and with no trail to follow I gain speed for the incline and set to. This in itself is some feat for this little bike as I'm a heavy guy, but the torquey motor digs in and I fight for e best gripping line I get close to the top and am able to stop and check where I am to go and I see nothing, no sign and no-one in view. I need more height but my way all round is blocked by huge grass and Acacia bushes I decide to go left and make my first run straight through the closest foliage. It's still steep and the grass gives me extra grip. The deficit however is I can now see nothing other than grass as the tops are way above my head as I crash my way further. The thorny Acacia's are irritating and long parasitical vines trap my legs, handlebars and footrests. I do not want to fall here, this is snake territory! The grass binds up my rear wheel along with it looping over the rear brake lever, I am halted and I am off, I tumble and wait for the strike of fangs at some exposed piece of skin, nothing comes. I right the bike and clear grass, I still cannot see over the top now that I am standing. I have to go on This happens at least 4 times more, but I'm not counting, I just do not want to roll each time and grip those bars harder than imagination allows to stay in contact with bike. I could roll or slide perhaps any distance on this hill It's not long before I fall and become trapped. My left leg caught by my boots and knee brace. I have to work hard and fast at an impossible angle to get free and then clear the bike It takes me around 5 painful minutes but although panting I take more heavy draws of water and set off again After yet another off I break clear of the grass and can see for the first time how alone I am This is not a place I wish to spend the night! I take stock and think this through. The moves I make now will not only affect others who will be looking for me, but will determine my life This is late afternoon and it gets dark early here Whatever I do has to be swift, positive and sensible
I hear bikes in the distance and I give a sequence of high revvings of the engine and hear nothing in return I know I have water, my gps and a good head for direction I also have my Leatherman and importantly my mobile phone with an emergency number as long as I have a signal
I keep my eyes and ears open for a few minutes and catch sight of a single rider on an adjacent ridge How to get there? I can't go up and down doesn't look like a good option either for route or to be visible The only way is back into the grass and to keep my right side downhill Very reluctantly I set off again, I know how this going to go I make it through having toppled over a further 3 times, I think I'm getting the hang of this! I break out of the grass some distance further up from when I started and attempt to pick a line to the ridge ahead There are more Acacia bushes, but not so much grass Yippee! I see a chance of a run to the top, but it's not fast and means dropping into a dip with a few trees. I shall be completely out of sight but hopefully only for a short while I repeat the engine revving and shut off to look and listen - Nothing!
I head over. I have 50m or so over tussock grass and then the short drop into the dip. Once there, I reason I havve about a 30M rise to the ridge and then the run home
I'm in the dip but can't maintain any momentum due to overhanging branches. Unbeknowingly, I've already struck my forepeak so hard the screw on the left side has sheared I set up for a run and fail losing traction in the wet humous like soil This dip is holding water and it's not helping. I try a few different angles but the moisture, steepness, my own tiredness and skill set can't do it. I know this is my only chance and I try again after thinking through the best option I'm over on my side now with my leg trapped beneath the bike and fuel spilling out over me. Not a happy place. I can reach the tap and turn off It takes me a full 5 minutes just to extract my leg and I almost begin digging myself out. For those that know it's a position of no leverage
I'm panting with the effort and I control my breathing. I remove my helmet to listen again, still not a blessed sound of humans or bikes Now it's time for assistance, I at least need to be guided to the right place to access the ridge I can't do that where I am so I have to relocate to a visible point and must retain the high ground. I just don't want that grass again
I set off to an area on the hillside facing the direction of the ridge and our end destination . Once there I think I see a bike but it turns out to be a local woman carrying something on her head as they do I keep watching through a small gap in tress beside the path she follows on the ridge. This must be the route the riders have taken. As I watch I see a rider, then a few more, all heading away from me I'm not worried as I know I can walk myself out of here if I have to and I still have a few cereal bars, my first aid kit and a torch I haul myself aboard again and rip off a few errant vines of "Waitawhile" that have attched themselves to me My sweat stings some scratches I've collected through the opening of my helmet, I realise I've been lucky with my eyes as I've had to pocket my safety specs due to the rain 5 minutes later I'm stood beside the bike in an obvious position and revving again. No response! It's not long however before I see a few bikes headed back and I know they are looking for me I restart the bike and point the headlight in their direction Almost immediately I receive a direct headlight shining at me They are coming
Still all I really want is guidance as they can see far more of where I am than I can About 10 to 15 minutes pass and and Sweep is beside me as I keep the explanations simple Apparently I was not the only one to be detached and off route but the others had folk closer by who called instructions
The decision is made as to where is best to extract me and I take some satisfaction in finding myself at the same place I fell and trapped my leg, my tyre marks proof of my efforts Between the 3 of us we gain the ridge and after a brief rest and in the glooming of dusk we head down It's 'on the pegs again' and the ledges are no different. Narrow slippery with scattered rocks and occasional boulders. Wherever possible I take to the grass for grip and watch for holes and concealed boulders Lower down there appear some gravel roads and one has me fully sideways for about 20 feet. It's graceful thankfully as I really can't be doing with any more falling off and certainly not on this stuff
My arrival with the others at our brilliant Lodge is greeted with cheers. I expect to be ridiculed and ripped a new arsehole but they are aware of the other deviations and lack of track
MY TEAM have extended hands and beer waiting for me We have succeeded together in completing this final section of utter hard graft and we only did this by working as one This band of complete strangers just a few days ago, now fully aware of each others strengths and weaknesses, now friends Team Green!
Sent from my iPhone
__________________
IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
Hi Terry, Well done old son. I've thoroughly enjoyed every episode of your trials, tribulations and eventual triumph. I bet that first beer tasted good when you'd finished.!!
Secretly I'm pleased that you didn't succumb to a venomous snakebite, but I have to say that if the worst had come to the worst I'd have been happy to look after the grieving girlfriend. (Hi Carol, if you're reading this it was only my little joke).
I hope you've some hair- raising pics we can all look at when you return ( not in my case obviously) but you know what I mean.
It might well be Orange for Tel, David. He does have three of the blighters.
I wonder if he will get a Honda CRF230F to add to his collection........ I suppose if you had 3 of the orange beasties at least one is going to be running???
But saying that completing such an epic journey... an oddesey even ...on any bike is a truly outstanding feat
The Final day dawns! It's here, we've come so far All 89 of us know that this should be a simple day by comparison with those before We are already jubilant inside yet a heavy nagging seems to fester in our thoughts All around me I see the same expressions of anticipation and dread What a ****tail! No small part of out considerations is the fact that it has rained very heavily in the night and it is still raining as we complete our preparations This will become far more of a challenge to us than we imagine and yet victory seems only a breath away
Our stay at Mbotyi Lodge has been lovely. It has a great feel, very reasonable accomodation and good grub, without which our little army would not be able to march
We now have approximately 200+ Km to go and much of it we are told is on the gravel roads!!! Oh my Gawd, we know what that means, the dreaded brown cream!
Each team sets off from Mbotyi and those that elected not to do the inaugral final section of yesterday had already refuelled. I, along with the majority of The Greens require juice and it's not long before I can feel the need for reserve
We're headed for the town of Lusikisik but take a several mile detour which has me puzzled, especially since some miles in we start passing streams of riders heading back past us on this single road? The answer comes at the road end where we are treated to an incredibly narrow and high gorge We're off the bikes and taking pictures with the familiar polite and smiling children all around us The views are astonishing and my tingling hands from vibration are glad of the break Many of us are on reserve and have been for some time, there is mild anxiety of course
Back in the saddle again we thunder off, the sound echoing through the gorge and we leave the children to their normal lives and no more looking at their own faces on the camera LCD screens Just outside town we need to transfer a pint of fuel to an empty bike and I consider my own position, surely I am on fumes now. I need not have concerned myself I find as fuel is close by I also rethink my clothing choice since it continues to rain lightly and I am only wearing my treasured Green Team top over my Six Six One armour I am not the slightest bit cold and unworried by being wet. When we arrive at the real offroad sections I'll be wet anyway but dripping in sweat If we have any full throttle road sections of any length I have my water proof jacket liner to put on that will keep me warm
The fuel stop in Lusikisik is an opportunity for a top up of fluids for us and a release for those that are full No 2's apparently are avoided due to the small unflushed mountain in the pan It's here we fix our first puncture which is unbelievable considering the terrain One of the other teams fixed 4 in a day and were able to reduce the time taken to 12 minutes!
Whilst we wait there is a constant flow of white Midi vans that are the familiar people taxi's all over. Most are simple, quite rickety and occasionally with booming bass notes thumping from behind closed doors We laugh at one that displays the wording " PORN STAR " in bold glitter text on the cars front?
All topped up we head off again and after a while leave the outskirts of town and the slime coated roads behind We regain our familiar friendly tussock grass and cattle paths The speed drops inversely to the excitement and we rumble our procession of growling exhausts and whining clutches past the back and front doors of the hill people and farmers simple homes Onward and upward with little daunting slides, bumps and mischievous trickery, all designed it seems to bring about our undoing We ride at the very top with rolling drop offs on all sides directiy across the local football pitch with game in progress! Our jaws and their jaws all drop at the spectacle
Our descent is down a narrow track which we can see for about 250M then over the side and into "Hellsgate" The puncture has delayed us by a half hour and the rain continues to fall if not quite so heavy Another team is ahead of us and there is mild kudos at stake with the completion in Port Edward by 1500hrs Our Guide checks in, it's a moment of disbelief! Due to the conditions there is Utter Mayhem down below us There are bikes being recovered from offtrack incidents and "The Boss" in control has cancelled the stage! We cannot go further and enter the technical section We are told a little more of it's nature and things make sense It apparently is steep, very narrow and quite unforgiving with drops at the sides having a level of sheerness about them
We look at one another knowing only too well what it would mean to go down in terms of adversity We also know that this means we are committed to the gravel roads for about 150km We know exactly what that means too and it"s not funny!
Glum, grim and flattened we look to one another and our consoling thought is that we've proved we can do it Now we ready ourselves for a ride of endurance to the finish The waterproofs go on
The hours and fuel stops pass and I am glad of the extra layer and no wind chill There are so many thoughtful moments where driving skills are tested but having completed some 100km we are faced with a decision. We are asked if we would prefer to continue on the gravel roads or do the last 50km on Tarmac? For the second time this day we make a collective decision, this time born more out of safety We elect for the Tarmac and the easier run into Port Edward We have all really had quite enough of the 'Brown Cream'!
The tarmac rules of engagement differ and are a small culture shock from our acustomed surfaces I find the required driving position in line not far from the road edge to permit faster traffic an easier overtake decidedly undefensive and against the grain I am not on a scooter and even if I were I would rathernot ride in the detritus of the road and invite someone behind to attempt an overtake unsensibly I would not teach a new rider to do what I am being asked to do I keep my wits about me but without mirrors and with a roaring engine I have to place my trust in others intelligence
On the outskirts of Port Edward we are pulled over by the Police and informed that they are waiting for us We move on behind this single car with lights flashing and siren wailing at junctions No red light prevents our progress Shortly we pull into a fuel station and are greeted with water and banners and officials It's a moving moment and there are handshakes all round We know however that we are not quite at the very end and besides, this is not all the entrants!
TEAM GREEN ARE FIRST IN!
There is kudos of course, but it is felt only for a fraction, we all feel that it should be every single entrant here at the very same time We are not deserving of amy additional glory Our comrades and friends are behind us but with us in our minds and spirit
Then the unimaginable! The remaining teams are so far behind ( in part due to the staggered starts, the punctures and also to the disaster within Hellsgate ) we will have to do the cavalcade run into T O Strand without them! This is wrong, but we have no choice, people and press are waiting
The procession begins, headed by Police vehicles, a huge adventure truck and Unicef followed by riders all now proudly displaying Green tops and no rain jackets We are at times in pairs and at others in 3's as we wind our way through the wealthy suburbs There is a huge and permanent smile on my face and I look around and behind me from the second row to my friends and comrades I choke up a little as it dawns on me, we've done it! We've bloody done it!
We stand on the footpegs and cruise along There is the occasional wheelie and a littlei riding on verges There are riders filming on the move both forward and back There is joy!
For maybe 10 minutes we ride through Port Edward to the T O Strand Just enough time to settle to the achievement and then we sweep into the car park There are people all over and drums and African dancers As we get off the bikes for the very last time we all waiver Slowly we soak in this glorious sensation of success and appreciation After some time we are led up to a waiting veranda for photographs, welcoming Champagne, more dance performances and brief speeches Everyone is treating us with huge respect We each receive a garland necklace which will forever have pride of place upon my mantle So too do we receive finshers 'T' shirts
This is yet another occasion this trip where I am deeply moved and would have loved my Father to have seen I have done some good Nd noble things in my life, but never on this scale, or with such a continual effort of will This reward I feel has no measure
I just know that I personally have mDe a difference to the lives of others, in particular, the children and I have had a huge experience at the same time I find that I am warmed inside
Many have asked would I do this again? I'd have No Hesitation!
Sent from my iPhone
__________________
IT'S NO MISTAKE THAT MAN'S BEST FRIEND CANNOT TALK!!
I hope there will be some vids. Terry's head- cam was fitted on the rear mudguard....and disappeared a few days ago. Nothing sinister, just came adrift I believe.
Pol, also Devon TRF, goes out on Friday, hopefully we'll get some posts from her too.
